Replacing Downlights in Australia: Costs, Rules and DIY Guide

Got a dead downlight staring back at you from the ceiling? Before you grab a ladder and start pulling things apart, there are a few things every Australian homeowner needs to know — including what you’re legally allowed to do yourself and what requires a licensed electrician.

This guide covers the rules, the costs, and the step-by-step process so you can make the right call for your home.

This is the first question most people ask — and the answer depends on how your downlights are connected.

In Australia, you cannot legally replace a hardwired downlight fitting yourself. You must hire a licensed electrician. However, you can replace the light bulb (globe) inside the fitting, or replace the entire unit yourself only if it uses a plug-and-play socket in the ceiling space.

Most modern homes built in the last 10–15 years use plug-in connectors, but older homes almost always have hardwired fittings. The only way to know for sure is to check.

Here’s how to tell which type you have:

1. Turn off the power at the switchboard (flick off the lighting circuit breaker — not just the light switch).
2. Gently pull the downlight unit down 2–3cm from the ceiling. Most downlights are held in place by spring clips and will come down with a gentle, even pull.
3. Look at the cable connection behind the light:

Scenario A — Plug-in connector: The cable runs into a standard plug-and-play connector (like a small power socket) sitting in the ceiling space. You can replace this yourself.

Scenario B — Hardwired: The cable runs into a junction box, or the wires are joined with terminal connectors, tape or wire nuts. You need a licensed electrician for this one.

If you’re not sure what you’re looking at, stop there and give us a call. It’s not worth the risk — or the fine. In NSW, unlicensed electrical work can result in penalties of up to $22,000 for individuals.

This is where most people get stuck. The cost depends on whether you need the electrician to supply the lights or you’re providing your own, and how many you’re getting done in one visit.

As a general guide, expect to pay between $60 and $110 per point for supply and installation of new LED downlights. If you provide the lights yourself, labour only is typically $35–$55 per light, plus a call-out fee.

Prices are estimates only and may vary depending on ceiling access, wiring condition and light specifications.

Fair question. When you’re only replacing one downlight, the bulk of the cost is getting the electrician there — not the actual work. The call-out fee covers travel, insurance, tools and the mandatory Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work (CCEW) that’s required by law for any hardwired installation in Australia.

That’s why it makes sense to batch your downlight replacements together. If you’ve got a few lights flickering or you’ve been meaning to upgrade the whole room to LEDs, getting them all done in one visit brings the per-light cost down significantly.

At Moonlight Electrical, we quote per job — not per hour — so you’ll know exactly what it costs before we start. No surprises, no watching the clock.

Not all downlights are created equal, and the fix depends on what type you’ve got in your ceiling.

Integrated LED: The LED chips are built directly into the fitting. You’ll see a flat glass or plastic surface with no visible bulb — it’s a sealed, one-piece unit. If this burns out, you can’t just change the bulb. The entire unit needs to be replaced.

GU10 or MR16 (replaceable bulb): The fitting has a separate bulb held in by a twist-lock or pin connection. You can see a gap between the bulb and the housing. If this burns out, you simply buy a replacement globe (usually $5–$15 from Bunnings) and swap it yourself.

Not sure which you have? Pull the light down gently (power off first) and check. If the whole thing is one sealed unit, it’s integrated. If you can twist or pull out a separate bulb, it’s replaceable.

1. Switch off the power at the switchboard — not just the light switch.
2. Grip the outer ring (fascia) with your fingertips on opposite sides.
3. Pull straight down slowly and evenly. The spring clips will release from the ceiling. Watch your fingers — those clips snap back hard if you let go.
4. Check the connection. Look at the driver and plug connection to determine if it’s plug-in or hardwired.

If it’s a plug-in type, you can disconnect the old unit and connect the new one yourself. If it’s hardwired, leave it disconnected and call a licensed electrician.

If your home still has old halogen downlights, upgrading to LEDs is one of the smartest electrical upgrades you can make. LED downlights use up to 85% less energy than halogens, run significantly cooler (reducing fire risk), and last years longer. You can learn more in our guide about the difference between LED and Incandescent lighting.

There’s one catch worth knowing about: old halogen cut-out holes may be a different size to modern LED fittings. Most halogen downlights used a 90mm cut-out, while many modern LEDs come in 70mm or adjustable sizes. Measure your existing ceiling holes before you buy new lights — or better yet, let your electrician handle the supply so the sizing is right the first time.

Planning a new layout or replacing lights across a room? Here’s a simple guide to get the spacing right:

Hole size: Measure your current ceiling hole diameter before buying. Common sizes are 70mm, 90mm and 92mm.

Spacing: Place downlights roughly 1.2 to 1.5 metres apart, and half that distance from the nearest wall (around 600mm). This gives even light coverage without dark spots or overly bright patches.

Colour temperature matters:

• Warm White (3000K): Best for living rooms, bedrooms and dining areas. Creates a relaxed, inviting feel.
• Cool White (4000K+): Ideal for kitchens, laundries, bathrooms and garages. Brighter, more task-focused light.

If you’re replacing lights across the whole house, sticking to one colour temperature per room keeps things looking consistent. Mixing warm and cool in the same space tends to look odd.

Here’s something a lot of homeowners don’t realise until it’s too late.

In Australia, any fixed wiring work — including hardwired downlight installation — legally requires a Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work (CCEW). This is the document your electrician must provide after completing the job. It confirms the work meets the Australian/New Zealand Wiring Rules (AS/NZS 3000) and has been done safely.

Why does this matter to you?

Without a CCEW, your home insurance may not cover you in the event of an emergency, like an electrical fire or fault. If you’ve had electrical work done without a certificate, you could be left exposed — even if the work was done by a licensed sparky who simply forgot the paperwork.

Before hiring any electrician, ask one simple question: “Will you provide a CCEW for this job?”

If they hesitate or say it’s not necessary, that’s a red flag. Move on.

At Moonlight Electrical, every job we complete comes with the appropriate compliance certificates, backed by our Lifetime Labour Guarantee and 7-year warranty on electrical systems. We don’t cut corners — because your family’s safety isn’t something we take lightly.

Whether you’re swapping out a single blown downlight or upgrading your entire home to energy-efficient LEDs, Moonlight Electrical can help.

We’re a family-owned electrical business servicing all of Sydney, with 5-star Google reviews across the board. We quote per job (not per hour), arrive within 60 minutes when booked before midday (or the service call is free), and back every job with our Lifetime Labour Guarantee.

Call us on 0401 019 632 to book your downlight replacement today.